Wired by England by Weird
Welcome! wxexw - Wired by England by Weird - is the dumping ground for all things Will England - photos, videos, and audio of my family and dog, professional geekery, video and photo tips and my slightly tilted opinions. Enjoy your stay, subscribe to the RSS Feed with your favorite feed reader.
You can always contact me at wengland@gmail.com! - Will England
Tuesday, September 08, 2026
Why McDonald's and QuikTrip Fountain Soda Just Hits Different
Wednesday, August 26, 2026
Rescuing Digital8 Tapes on a 2011 iMac: FireWire Setup & Linux Capture Notes
You don't need active converters or powered hubs. All you need is one of the following:
Sony called FireWire "i.LINK", but underneath the branding, it’s standard IEEE 1394. The Sony D8 camcorder uses a tiny 4-pin port (IEEE 1394a), while the 2011 iMac has a standard 9-pin FireWire 800 port (IEEE 1394b).
Every few years, I end up pulling out the old camcorders to digitize another stack of family tapes before magnetics fade or hardware gives up the ghost. If you've tried doing this on modern hardware recently, you know the struggle: stringing together three different dongles (FireWire to Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 3/4) just to talk to a 20-year-old camera. Last time I did this I used a failing 2006 Macbook Pro with the R&B channels failing in the LCD, leaving a very yellow cast to the screen.
Aince then I've inheritied an old 2011 iMac and it looks like it'll be a a total workhorse for tape capture. It's fast enough to handle high-volume storage easily, but old enough to feature a native FireWire 800 port right on the back panel.
Here is a quick note-to-self on the hardware setup and software workflow, specifically how to use dvgrab on Linux for smooth, hands-off capturing. (since I think the first thing I'm going to do is upgrade that machine to Linux!
1. The Hardware: Connecting i.LINK to FireWire 800
The Best Option: A direct 4-pin to 9-pin FireWire 400/800 cable. Plug the 4-pin end into the Sony camcorder and the 9-pin end directly into the back of the iMac. Clean and simple.
The Backup Option: A standard 4-pin to 6-pin FireWire 400 cable paired with a passive FireWire 400 (6-pin female) to FireWire 800 (9-pin male) adapter plug. (I had a chain of these around somewhere, but they've gone to the hardware fairy)
2. Software Options (macOS vs. Linux)
If you boot the iMac into its native macOS (High Sierra 10.13 being the official cap), you have a few easy GUI choices:
iMovie 10 or '11: Works seamlessly out of the box. It will detect the Sony deck, let you control playback from your keyboard, and stream the raw DV footage wrapped in
.movfiles. This is what I did on the 2006 Macbook Pro. It worked, mostly.QuickTime Player X: Open File > New Movie Recording, click the little dropdown arrow next to the record button, select your camcorder for Video/Audio, and set quality to High (this preserves raw native DV without re-encoding).
However, since I should be running Linux on the iMac, the CLI tool dvgrab is unmatched for precision and control.
3. Using dvgrab on Linux (Yes, You Have Remote Deck Control!)
A common misconception when using command-line capture tools is thinking you have to manually press play on the camera side. With dvgrab, you don't!
Because FireWire carries AV/C (Audio/Video Control) signals right alongside the data stream, dvgrab can remotely control the Sony camcorder directly through the cable.
# Interactive Mode: Control the tape drive right from your terminal
dvgrab -i
# Standard split capture with automatic scene detection & timestamps
dvgrab --autosplit --timestamp my_tape_
When you run dvgrab -i, it drops you into an interactive control shell with easy keyboard shortcuts:
p— Playa— Pause / Still framer— Rewindf— Fast Forwardc— Start recording stream to diskq— Stop recording / Quit
Hardware Workaround: If the FireWire control board on an aging camcorder gets flaky and stops responding to AV/C commands, pass the
-mflag (dvgrab -m my_tape_). This switches to manual mode:dvgrabwill sit quietly waiting for data, allowing you to hit Play on the physical camera buttons whenever you're ready.
Tuesday, August 11, 2026
Genealogy: A Family of Jarls: The Story of Thore the Silent and His Kin
Late last night I was adding a couple of documents to my mom's record in Family Search as I prepared to head off to her interment service today. I thought I'd see how far back the 'Dean' family name went. About a thousand years. To a family living in the Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England. That's 26 generations back. Curious, I went back a bit farther to see if these forest dwellers came from anywhere interesting.
Monday, August 10, 2026
Origin of the phrase Dempster Dumpster
Tuesday, July 14, 2026
Fixed! The Unseen Reason Your Bluetooth Headset Audio is Choppy on a Desktop PC
If you just bought a nice Bluetooth headset (like a pair of Shokz) and paired it to your desktop PC, only to get terrible, stuttering audio, you are probably ready to return it. It starts crackling, cutting out, or just goes completely silent the second you lean back in your chair.
It is easy to blame Windows, outdated drivers, or a defective headset. But if your motherboard has built-in Wi-Fi, the real fix is incredibly simple, and you probably threw the solution back into your motherboard's retail box.
The Onboard Bluetooth Myth
When a motherboard boasts "Onboard Wi-Fi and Bluetooth" (like the GIGABYTE X570S Aorus Elite AX), most people assume the hardware is self-contained. Our phones have Bluetooth without any weird external wires, so why wouldn't a premium PC?
Here is the catch: onboard PC Bluetooth modules do not have internal antennas.
The wireless card hidden under your motherboard's metal shield relies entirely on the gold terminals on the back of your PC to send and receive signals.
Why Does It Work a Little Bit Without It?
Without the antenna, your PC's Bluetooth range drops to about a foot. If your computer is sitting on the floor or even on your desk, your body or the metal case will completely block the signal.
This is why the headset pairs fine, but the audio immediately goes to garbage when you actually try to use it.
The golden rule here is that your Wi-Fi antenna is also your Bluetooth antenna. Even if you use a wired Ethernet cable and never touch Wi-Fi, you still have to plug in that antenna to get a usable Bluetooth signal.
The Quick Fix
To fix this, you just need to do three quick things:
Find your motherboard box and pull out the external antenna (the GIGABYTE one looks like a little plastic fin with two wires).
Screw the two gold connectors into the back of your PC's I/O panel until they are finger-tight.
Place the antenna somewhere high with a clear line of sight. Since it has a magnetic base, sticking it on top of your PC case works perfectly.
Once it is plugged in, the audio stutters should disappear completely and you will finally get the range you expected.
Tested working all across the house just like it should!
Saturday, September 13, 2025
Make a Pond at Shawnee Mission Park with a Trailcam?
Oh hai! What six months since I posted?
So, news first. August 9th helped my daughter to unfsck her vintage Honda Accord. Catalytic heat shield fell off and was dragging on the highway. Laid down, jacked the car up a bit reached out and banged the metal off the frame. No immediate issues, eh?
Well a day or two later, shooting pain from the hip to the heel on the left leg. Sciatica.
It's now one full month and I've got 500 steps, or 4 minutes standing before I have to pop a squat to reset the nerves. Gah.
Well, we can still plan for the future!
This post on X (Twitter for us OG's) shows a guy making a pond in a desolate area of a nature preserve, then filming the animals that come!
The man made a small puddle in the forest and observed the creatures that came to drink. 🙏👏 pic.twitter.com/ZgZkg7GA4Q
— March (@MarchUnofficial) April 8, 2025
SO, Shawnee Mission Park has a large unused area that has limited camping and no maintained trails - an ideal place to put a pond and trail cam! Comment your suggestions for a good HD trail cam with IR night vision!
Monday, July 21, 2025
PC troubles
Well, if it’s not one thing it’s another. For the last several weeks, I’ve been battling with the PC shutting off. And doing the research and digging through the blogs and tech decks and so forth, it appears to be a fault with the AMD CPU. I’ve tried changing settings in the bios, tried overclocking it, under clocking it, over volting it, under volting it, turning off idle State, turning on idle State, none of which has made any difference. Yesterday, it restarted seven times while basically idle. What I’m playing a game or editing a video and rendering it stays stable, but while it’s just kind of chilling out it shuts down. That’s unfortunate. It’s making it hard for me to be interested in starting streaming again. To stream,you need a stable machine that’s going to run for 2, 3, 4 hours at a pop without crashing.
Well tonight, I thought I’d try again. It had been stable all day today, so I thought I might be able to get a brief stream in before bed. I managed to get the game up the streaming software loaded and even started the stream and got into the first scene of the game. And then. . .
The cat jumped down off the desk and landed directly on the power button, shutting the computer off completely near minutes after I had started my last ditch attempt to stream. The world is telling me something perhaps not to strain. Or perhaps to get that power covered up. Anyway, will be back to it when we can get back to it. I must say, though, it was frustrating.
Namaste!
